Dalmatian coast, Istria, Slovenian lakes, Bosnian valleys and Lake Ohrid, from Zagreb to Skopje and Tirana
Hiring a motorhome in the Balkans means stringing together, in a few days, landscapes that could hardly be more different: Adriatic islands and coves, the forested lakes of Plitvice, Slovenia's alpine passes, Bosnia's Ottoman bridges, the shores of Lake Ohrid. Thirteen pick-up cities are available, including Zagreb, Split, Zadar, Dubrovnik, Pula, Rijeka, Krk, Ljubljana, Sarajevo, Blagaj, Skopje, Tirana and Belgrade, with five rental companies: Anywhere Campers, Blurent, McRent, Petroni and Touring Cars.
The region covers several countries with different rules. Croatia and Slovenia are in the European Union and the Schengen area; Bosnia and Herzegovina, North Macedonia, Albania and Serbia are not. Crossing a border needs preparation: it depends on the rental company's approval and on insurance. Most of the choice is therefore made at the pick-up city.
Choose your departure city: the map shows where rental companies hand over their vehicles.
From Pula and its Roman amphitheatre, the road heads up Istria's west coast: Rovinj and its old town on a peninsula, then inland to Motovun and Grožnjan, villages perched above vineyards and truffle woods. The route then turns towards the Kvarner Gulf, with Opatija and its Belle Époque villas.
Rijeka makes a good next stop. The Krk bridge leads to the island of the same name, where Petroni also has a depot: this lets you finish on the island rather than coming back. A one-way trip between Pula and Rijeka depends on the rental companies and dates.
From Zadar, head south between islands and marinas: Šibenik and its cathedral, the Skradinski Buk waterfall in Krka National Park, Trogir, then Split and Diocletian's Palace. The road then follows the Makarska Riviera at the foot of Biokovo, before entering the Neretva valley.
The route then crosses the Neum corridor, a strip of Bosnian coast: expect two checks and have your documents ready. Dubrovnik ends the trip, with its city walls. Allow about 480 km in all, often on winding coastal road, to be driven unhurriedly.
Leave Ljubljana to the north-west for Lake Bled and its island, then quieter Bohinj, on the edge of Triglav National Park. The many-hairpinned Vršič Pass road then links to the deep green Soča valley, where people go white-water rafting and hiking.
The return passes the Postojna caves and Predjama Castle, with a possible extension to Piran, on the Slovenian coast. Check your vehicle's length and height before the passes: some sections are narrow. If Zagreb appeals, one-way hire depends on the rental companies.
From Dubrovnik, the road climbs into Herzegovina: Počitelj, a fortified village on the Neretva, then Mostar and its old bridge. Blagaj, where Anywhere Campers has a depot, is very close: the source of the Buna springs from the foot of a cliff, next to a dervish tekke.
Further north, the road follows the Neretva and its gorges to Jablanica and Konjic, before reaching Sarajevo, the Baščaršija bazaar and the surrounding hills. Always stay on paved or clearly well-used roads and tracks: former minefields remain off the paths. Check the border-crossing conditions with the rental company.
From Skopje, allow a stop at Matka Canyon, then the Mavrovo mountains before descending to Lake Ohrid. Its old town, Byzantine churches and pebble beaches are worth two nights. At Struga, you cross the Albanian border, which requires the rental company's approval and the green card.
On the Albanian side, the road reaches Tirana via Elbasan, with a possible stop at Berat, the UNESCO-listed city of a thousand windows. Some minor roads are in poor condition and animals wander onto the carriageway: drive by day. A one-way trip between Skopje and Tirana depends on the rental companies.
In Dubrovnik, highs reach 22 to 27 °C between May and June, with a sea of 19 to 24 °C. In Pula, September keeps a high of 24 °C and a sea at 24 °C. Days bring 11 to 13 hours of sunshine, without the August crowds.
Coastal roads and ferries run more smoothly, and campsites are still available. May is wetter in Dubrovnik (144 mm) than June (54 mm).
In Split, highs exceed 31 °C in July and August, with a sea at 26 °C. Little rain falls: 30 mm in July. The heat means parking in the shade and starting sightseeing early.
This is the holiday period, with ferry queues and packed car parks near Dubrovnik's walls. Book your vehicle and campsites early.
Dubrovnik receives 358 mm of rain in November, over 15 days, and Split 258 mm. Coastal roads can be slippery and sea links less frequent; many campsites close.
The sea stays at 19 °C. Autumn suits a city stay in Split or Zadar more than a long road trip.
In Sarajevo, January shows a low of -4 °C for a high of 6 °C, with only 5 hours of sunshine. In Zagreb, lows drop below zero in December and January. Snow is frequent at altitude, which calls for suitable equipment and a heated vehicle.
The coast stays mild: a high of 11 °C in Dubrovnik in January. The Christmas markets in Zagreb and Ljubljana are a reason for a short stay.
First settle on the area: Dalmatian coast and Istria, Slovenia, inland Bosnia or the Albanian-Macedonian south. Each area has its own rental companies and borders; a trip limited to the European Union remains the simplest to organise.
Zagreb, Split, Dubrovnik and Zadar have the most rental companies. Sarajevo, Skopje, Tirana and Belgrade are served by Anywhere Campers alone. Run the search with your dates: the offers shown depend on availability at each depot.
If the route leaves the Schengen area, ask for the rental company's approval and the green card before booking, then carry the documents. Allow time at the checkpoints, especially in summer.
Island ferries from Split, Zadar or Dubrovnik and coastal campsites fill up in July and August. Lock them in as soon as your dates are fixed.
Return the vehicle to the agreed depot, with a full tank and consumables topped up. A return in another city or another country must be confirmed by the rental company.
Between Split and Dubrovnik, the road crosses about twenty kilometres of Bosnian territory, around Neum. You must show a passport or ID card at each crossing, as well as the vehicle's papers. The Pelješac Bridge now makes it possible to bypass this stretch: check which route you want to take.
Leaving the European Union in a motorhome requires the rental company's written approval, and insurance covering the country you are visiting, proven by the green card. This applies to Bosnia and Herzegovina, North Macedonia, Albania and Serbia. Some rental companies refuse certain countries. Ask for this approval before booking.
In Slovenia, motorways require a vignette, electronic and to be bought before you enter; the category depends on the size of the vehicle. In Croatia, motorways are toll roads, paid at the booth according to the distance driven. Keep payment methods to hand.
This cold north-easterly wind blows mainly in winter and spring on the Croatian coast. It can close the A1 motorway, the coast road and the Krk bridge to high-sided vehicles, including motorhomes. Check traffic notices before setting off.
Sleeping outside a campsite or authorised area is in principle forbidden in Croatia, and fines are heavy. In Slovenia the rule is the same, with checks in the parks. Rules vary in Bosnia and Albania: check locally, and choose a campsite in busy areas.
Allow ten days to go from Pula down to Dubrovnik without rushing. A week is enough between Zadar and Dubrovnik, provided you limit ferry excursions. Plan two to three nights in Split or Dubrovnik.
Ljubljana, where three rental companies have a depot, remains the natural starting point. Zagreb, 117 km away as the crow flies, suits you if you also plan to travel around Croatia. Both cities are in the Schengen area.
Yes, with the rental company's approval and the green card. Dubrovnik and Mostar are close, and Sarajevo is 135 km from Dubrovnik as the crow flies. The full trip means crossing the European Union's external borders.
The coast road between Split and Dubrovnik, overlooking the sea at the foot of Biokovo, is the most spectacular. Inland, the Neretva valley and the Vršič Pass in Slovenia are fine alternatives.
Yes, but preferably on the coast or in the big cities. Sarajevo and Zagreb drop below zero in January, and many coastal campsites are closed. Choose an equipped vehicle and a short route.
a lot of information, it's precise, but maybe too many different emails. I've received too many different ones that I am getting lost.
Good provider
First rental of this type of vehicle in a professional context where the rental must take place from France to Canada. Many questions and Cooldrive (Marlène) has been a valuable support in guiding my choices. Efficiency and responsiveness beforehand, and on-site a vehicle and service that met our expectations. No complaints. Great!
Yes, subject to the rental company's written approval and insurance valid in the country, proven by the green card. Ask for these documents before booking: some refuse certain destinations, or charge a surcharge.
For an EU citizen, a valid ID card is enough in these two countries, which belong to the Schengen area. For Bosnia, North Macedonia, Albania and Serbia, check the entry requirements before you leave.
Slovenia requires a vignette bought before entering the motorway. Croatia charges at the toll booth. Amounts and category depend on the vehicle's size: check the official websites before departure.
In Croatia and Slovenia, overnight parking outside a campsite or authorised area is in principle forbidden. Elsewhere, tolerance varies by municipality. Check locally and choose spots intended for motorhomes.
It depends on the rental company, the dates and the country of arrival. A Zagreb to Split or Ljubljana to Zagreb trip is the most common. A return in another country is rarer. Enter both depots in the search.
Yes, from Split, Zadar or Dubrovnik to the Dalmatian islands, depending on the companies and the vehicle's size. Book in summer, and check with the rental company that the crossings are allowed. The island of Krk is linked by a bridge.
The region offers rare contrasts over short distances: you have lunch on the Adriatic coast and sleep that evening in the Slovenian or Bosnian mountains. Rental companies are numerous around Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik, which makes it easier to organise a trip from the coast to the interior.
A motorhome lets you keep to this rhythm and link cities, lakes and villages without repacking. It does require planning ahead: borders, ferries, vehicle size on narrow roads. With these points sorted, a week or a long circuit both fit within this framework.
