Road trips & itineraries · 21 days

Patagonia Campervan Road Trip: From Chile to Argentina via Route 40 and the Carretera Austral

Before you start dreaming of glaciers and guanacos, ask yourself one simple question: do you actually have the time for this trip? Patagonia doesn't forgive overly optimistic schedules, and this itinerary helps you judge, from the very first kilometres, whether you have the days to spare.

4x4 with rooftop tent driving a straight gravel track through dry steppe toward snow-capped peaks

Before you start dreaming of glaciers and guanacos, ask yourself one simple question: do you actually have the time for this trip? Patagonia doesn't forgive overly optimistic schedules, and this itinerary helps you judge, from the very first kilometres, whether you have the days to spare.

Patagonia by campervan: a trip you have to earn

Between Bariloche and Torres del Paine, via the Carretera Austral, expect to cover roughly 3,000 to 3,500 km depending on the route you choose. That number looks reasonable on a map. It looks a lot less reasonable once you're behind the wheel, on roads where the straight lines stretch on for hours and the next petrol station has to be earned.

At a pace that's actually sustainable in a campervan — 200 to 300 km a day at most in this region, considerably less on the unpaved stretches — this route needs a minimum of 18 to 21 days. Any less, and you're no longer travelling: you're stringing together transfers, with no time to stop in front of a lake, wait out a break in the clouds, or simply recover from a day of bumpy tracks.

Our position here is clear: if you have fewer than 15 days, give up on the full crossing and pick one country instead. Chile and the Carretera Austral on one side, Argentina and Route 40 on the other, each offer enough to fill two weeks without feeling short-changed. Trying to do it all on borrowed time turns a trip into a race, and Patagonia doesn't lend itself to racing.

The Nomad tip

Before fixing your dates, map out the itinerary day by day with the real distances between each stop, not just the total. It's when you add up the individual legs that you discover a "short" day billed at 250 km can actually eat up most of the day once you factor in gravel tracks and wind.

The sections below cover the route itself, border formalities and fuel questions. But keep this in mind first: this trip is built around the time you have available, not the other way round.

Crossing the border with a rental campervan

This is often where the trip turns, well before the first glacier. A rental campervan doesn't cross a border the way a private car does: it belongs to the rental company, and taking a vehicle that isn't yours out of its country of registration requires written authorisation from them. Without that document, shown in black and white at the border post, you won't get past the queue.

Prepare the full paperwork before hitting the road: the authorisation to leave the country, the vehicle's registration document, and proof of insurance valid in both countries. Some rental companies issue the authorisation automatically when you collect the keys; others only on explicit request a few days before departure — check this when you book, not the night before you cross.

The crossings between Argentina and Chile can mean long waits in high season, particularly on the busiest routes between Bariloche and southern Chile. Build that margin into your day's schedule: a check that takes an hour instead of twenty minutes can be enough to jeopardise the next leg if it's already tight.

On the Chilean side, phytosanitary controls are strict and applied without exception. Fruit, vegetables, meat, dairy products: nothing fresh crosses the border in either direction. The rule is simple to follow, provided you think of it in time: empty the fridge and cupboards the night before you cross, and eat or throw away anything that won't make it through the check. Trying to hide a bit of leftover cheese is never worth the risk of a fine or a lengthy search.

The Nomad tip

Take a photo of every document — authorisation, registration, insurance — on your phone, in addition to the originals. At the more remote border posts in Patagonia, it's not unusual for an officer to ask to see them before you've even pulled the folder out of the glovebox.

Fuel and unpaved tracks: range comes first

On some stretches of Route 40 and the Carretera Austral, petrol stations can be 150 to 250 km apart. Nowhere else on this trip does the discipline of filling up matter as much: do it as soon as the tank drops below half, without waiting for the warning light or trusting a station marked on the map. A station that's closed, out of fuel, or simply no longer there since your GPS was last updated is enough to turn a quiet day into a serious problem.

The track sets its own rules. The moment the asphalt gives way to dirt or "ripio" (washboard-like gravel tracks!), slow down to 40-50 km/h. This isn't excessive caution: stones thrown up by the wheels regularly damage chassis and tyres, and a rental campervan is rarely covered for this kind of incident the way it would be for a simple road collision. Keep your eyes on the road ahead rather than on the scenery — the scenery, at least, isn't going anywhere.

This is exactly the terrain where your choice of vehicle stops being a minor detail. A van, comfortable on sealed roads, quickly shows its limits on narrow tracks, bridges with restricted clearance, and sections where grip runs out. A 4x4 — a pickup with a cab, or a 4x4 fitted with a rooftop tent — handles the stones better, gets through tricky sections more confidently, and leaves more margin when the track deteriorates without warning.

Which vehicle for this trip?

For this trip, forget the classic van. Our pickups with cabs and our 4x4s with rooftop tents are built for Route 40 and the Carretera Austral: more generous ground clearance, better grip on ripio, reinforced protection against flying stones. A choice that makes a real difference the moment the asphalt disappears.

See campervans in Argentina

Where to sleep: campsites, pull-offs and regulated wild camping

Finding somewhere to park the campervan is one of those things to plan for, not improvise once you're there. Three types of spots structure this trip, and none of them work the same way.

In the national parks, campsites are organised, often with toilets and sometimes a minimal electricity supply. That's the case at Torres del Paine, where demand far outstrips supply in high season: spots there need booking months ahead, not a few weeks. Turning up without a reservation between December and February means gambling on a free spot in one of the busiest sites in Patagonia — a gamble we wouldn't recommend.

Along Route 40, the comfort level drops. The pull-offs you'll come across are mostly basic: flat ground, occasionally a water point, rarely more. They're perfectly fine for an overnight stop, but don't expect services on a par with the parks.

Wild camping outside these areas is the trickiest question. Inside national parks, it's generally forbidden outside designated spots, and the authorities enforce this. Outside the parks, tolerance varies by area and local authority — a rule that changes from one province to the next, and needs checking case by case before you settle in for the night. Never assume that a remote spot means an authorised one.

The Nomad tip

For Torres del Paine, book your campsite spot before you've even finalised the rest of the itinerary if your visit falls between December and February. It's often this date, fixed months in advance, that should then dictate the timing of every other stage of the trip — not the other way round.

Budget: fuel, national parks and the unexpected

A figure to start with, rounded and upfront: budget roughly €400 to €500 for fuel across the whole trip, depending on local prices and your vehicle's consumption. The gap between those two figures isn't trivial — a loaded pickup on gravel drinks noticeably more than a van on asphalt, and fuel prices vary significantly between Argentina and Chile. Don't budget too tightly: aim for the higher end of the range, and you'll be pleasantly surprised if it doesn't come to that.

National parks come with a cost that's easy to forget when planning the route, and easy to rediscover at the ticket window. Los Glaciares and Torres del Paine each charge several tens of euros per person in entrance fees. Multiply that by the number of travellers and by both parks, and the total climbs well beyond what you'd expect for a simple visit.

Add a margin for mechanical surprises on top of that. A tyre slashed by a stone, a repair caused by a badly negotiated stretch of ripio: these incidents happen more often in Patagonia than elsewhere, and it would be optimistic to think you'll avoid them on a trip this long. Planning for this in the budget stops a flat tyre becoming a money problem on top of being a delay.

A word on the figures themselves: we give them in euros so you can compare and budget before you leave, but no payment is made in that currency on the ground. You'll pay in Argentine pesos or Chilean pesos depending on which country you're in — two separate currencies, with exchange rates that shift, and that are worth checking right before departure rather than relying on a figure memorised months earlier.

The Nomad tip

Always keep a bit of cash in local currency, for each country, before you reach the remote stretches of Route 40 or the Carretera Austral. Some petrol stations and isolated campsites don't take cards, and the nearest cash machine can be several hours' drive away.

Frequently asked questions before you go

What's the minimum number of days for Bariloche to Torres del Paine by campervan?

Allow 18 to 21 days for the 3,000 to 3,500 km route, at a pace of 200 to 300 km a day at most. Below 15 days, it's better to give up on the full crossing and focus on one country: Chile with the Carretera Austral, or Argentina with Route 40.

Can you really cross the border with a rental campervan?

Yes, but not without preparation. You need written authorisation from the rental company, the vehicle's registration document, and proof of insurance valid in both countries. Some rental companies provide this automatically, others only on explicit request a few days before departure — check when you book, never the day before you cross.

Do you need a 4x4 for this trip?

On the unpaved stretches of Route 40 and the Carretera Austral, yes, without question. A van struggles with flying stones and sections with poor grip. A pickup with a cab or a 4x4 with a rooftop tent offers ground clearance and protection far better suited to this terrain.

What fuel budget should I plan for?

Between €400 and €500 for the whole trip, depending on the vehicle and local prices — a pickup on gravel uses noticeably more than a van on asphalt. It's better to budget for the higher end than to run short.

Can you camp freely outside campsites?

Inside national parks, no: wild camping outside designated spots is generally forbidden and enforced. Outside the parks, tolerance varies by province and local authority — a rule to check case by case before settling in. A remote spot is never the same as an authorised one.

The route, leg by leg

LEG 1

Bariloche → Patagonian steppe (km 250, Route 40)

250 km · 3 hr 51

Route 40 stretches out almost immediately in a straight line, paved but swept by a wind that pushes the campervan toward the shoulder. Gas stations become scarce past Bariloche: fill up before you leave and keep an eye on the gauge. Plan for a short first stage tonight, a way to settle into the rhythm before the long days ahead.

LEG 2

Km 250 → km 500 (Route 40)

250 km · 3 hr 51

The landscape doesn't change much here: arid plateau, a few guanacos in the distance, and a road running straight to the horizon. You drive without rushing, windows closed because of the wind, with a good supply of water on board. No notable town on this stretch: you sleep at a site suited for campervans.

LEG 3

Km 500 → km 750 (Route 40)

250 km · 3 hr 51

The road keeps swallowing kilometres, and that's exactly what makes this circuit demanding: you have to accept driving for several days without a postcard view before reaching the South. Keep a spare fuel can if your rental contract allows it, some stretches separate pumps by more than 200 kilometres. The night is spent once again out on the steppe.

LEG 4

Km 750 → km 1,000 (Route 40)

250 km · 3 hr 51

At this point, patience is your best ally. The Patagonian wind usually picks up in the afternoon, which means driving mostly in the morning and stopping early. You start to feel El Chaltén getting closer, even if the road doesn't show it yet.

LEG 5

Km 1,000 → km 1,250 (Route 40)

250 km · 3 hr 51

Last long straight stretch before turning toward the Fitz Roy massif. The road remains largely paved, which allows you to keep a decent average speed despite the wind. Use this stage to check the campervan's fluid levels: the next one drops you into the mountains.

LEG 6

Km 1,250 → El Chaltén

250 km · 3 hr 51

The silhouettes of Fitz Roy gradually appear through the windscreen, the first real scenery of the circuit after several days of plateau. El Chaltén is explored on foot: plan two days here for hikes toward the massif, the campervan stays at the campsite while you're out on the trails. Spots fill up fast in season, so it's best to arrive in early afternoon.

LEG 7

El Chaltén → El Calafate

220 km · 3 hr 23

After two days of hiking, you set off again for a shorter stage toward the Perito Moreno glacier. The road is paved and drives well, which lets you reach El Calafate before the late-day gust of wind. Plan two to three days here as well: the glacier is worth looking at, but it really reveals itself when you walk the boardwalks.

LEG 8

El Calafate → Chilean-Argentine border

260 km · 4 hr

This is the stage where the circuit crosses into another country, and it's prepared before you even hit the road: choosing the border crossing, the campervan's papers, insurance valid on the Chilean side. The road stays smooth up to the checkpoint, but the crossing itself can take time depending on the season. Sleep on the Argentine side if the checkpoint closes early, it's better not to arrive at the border late in the day.

LEG 9

Border → km 150 (Carretera Austral)

150 km · 2 hr 53

The Carretera Austral begins, and with it the ripio: the road is no longer paved over long stretches. You drive more slowly, only during daylight, because dust and gravel make night driving risky for a rented campervan. Keep tyre pressure suited to gravel if your rental company advised it.

LEG 10

Km 150 → km 300 (Carretera Austral)

150 km · 2 hr 53

The ripio continues, flanked by dense forests and turquoise rivers glimpsed between bends. Speed stays low, and that's just as well: potholes don't always announce themselves. You sleep out in nature, far from any town, which is also part of this stretch's charm.

LEG 11

Km 300 → km 450 (Carretera Austral)

150 km · 2 hr 53

Still gravel, but the scenery more than makes up for the slow pace: waterfalls, hanging glaciers, and a road that seems to belong only to you. Check the tyres and shock absorbers at every stop, the track wears things out faster than asphalt. Keep moving as long as daylight allows.

LEG 12

Km 450 → km 600 (Carretera Austral)

150 km · 2 hr 53

The second-to-last stretch of ripio looks like the previous ones, but track fatigue sets in after several days. This is a good moment for a rest day if the schedule allows it, rather than pushing through one more stage on gravel. You can feel the end of the Carretera Austral getting closer.

LEG 13

Km 600 → km 750 (Carretera Austral)

150 km · 2 hr 53

Last stretch of track before finding a smoother road again. The ripio gives way in places to fresh asphalt, a sign that you're nearing more frequented areas. Catch your breath: the next stage leads toward Torres del Paine.

LEG 14

Km 750 (Carretera Austral) → Torres del Paine

220 km · 3 hr 23

The road improves noticeably as you approach the park, and the granite towers of the massif appear even before the entrance. Torres del Paine can be the circuit's endpoint or a stage before heading back down to Argentina, depending on the campervan's rental contract. Plan at least one full day here for the viewpoints accessible without a long hike.

LEG 15

Torres del Paine → back toward Argentina (stage 1)

260 km · 4 hr

If the rental contract requires returning to a drop-off point in Argentina rather than on the Chilean side, part of the route is retraced along the same roads. It's a long stage: leave early to make the most of the morning light and avoid driving late in the day. The border crossing is done a second time, this time in the other direction.

LEG 16

Back toward Argentina (stage 2) → drop-off point

260 km · 4 hr

Final stretch of the circuit, all the way to the campervan drop-off point specified in your rental contract. After three weeks and several thousand kilometres between asphalt and ripio, it's also time for an honest assessment: this circuit demands time, patience with the wind, and real administrative preparation for the border crossing. The Carnet's next article covers exactly that preparation, checkpoint by checkpoint.